What is a Bioactive Terrarium: How to Make, Maintain, Plants and Bugs

A bioactive terrarium is a self-cleaning and self-sustaining enclosed ecosystem that mimics a natural habitat. Bioactive terrariums contain live plants, substrate, springtails, isopods, and other beneficial organisms that help break down waste and prevent mold or bacteria growth. For reptile and amphibian owners, bioactive enclosures are a more naturalistic alternative to paper towel, newspaper, or turf substrates. They allow your pet to engage their natural behaviors like burrowing, foraging, and exploring.

Bioactive setups take some initial investment and preparation but can save money and time over traditional tank maintenance in the long run. Once established, bioactive terrariums require less frequent cleaning, absorb odors better, maintain higher humidity, and reduce the risk of impaction from accidental substrate ingestion. This guide will walk through everything you need to know about choosing, designing, planting, stocking, and maintaining a thriving bioactive habitat.

How Does a Bioactive Terrarium Work?

In nature, plants, animals, fungi, and microbes coexist in a complex web of symbiotic relationships. Organic materials are continuously broken down and recycled to support new growth in a sustainable loop. Bioactive vivariums seek to recreate these connections in a small, contained ecosystem.

Several key elements work together to maintain balance:

Plants uptake ammonia and provide shelter and food sources.
Microfauna like isopods and springtails decompose waste and aerate substrates.
Clean up crews such as millipedes, snails, and worms mechanically break down materials and eat fungi.
Microbial activity from bacteria and fungi mineralize waste for plant uptake.

With the right ratios of plants, microfauna, and cleanup crews, a bioactive vivarium can process nutrients efficiently. Waste from the inhabitant animals serves as food for microorganisms. The microbes mineralize waste into forms plants can absorb. The plants use the resulting ammonia, nitrates, and other nutrients while removing them from the environment. Microfauna likewise consume waste while churning and aerating the substrate. Cleanup crews speed decomposition and control mold/fungus.

This cycle supports the plants and substrate microbes to sustain the entire web of life. With each element doing its job, the system remains stable and requires minimal interference. Monitoring and replenishing depleted populations is often the only maintenance needed.

Why Use a Bioactive Vivarium?

Bioactive vivariums offer numerous benefits over traditional reptile enclosures with paper towel or carpet substrates:

Natural environment: Bioactive substrates, live plants, and microfauna better replicate a wild habitat. This enrichment encourages natural behaviors in reptiles and amphibians.
Balanced ecosystem: The plants, microfauna, and cleanup crew animals work together to process waste and prevent ammonia buildup. This stabilizes parameters like pH and creates a healthy home.
Lower maintenance: With the right balance, bioactive habitats practically care for themselves. Spot cleaning and full substrate changes are rarely needed.
Healthier inhabitants: Bioactive substrates allow reptiles and amphibians to exhibit natural burrowing behaviors. The variety of microfauna and edible plants also provides a balanced diet.
Aesthetic appeal: A lush, planted vivarium with colorful animals looks far more pleasing than boring paper towels or carpet.

The biodiversity and self-cleaning nature of bioactive vivaria make them a better environmental and physical habitat for reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates compared to sterile setups. The initial setup requires more work, but the long-term benefits are well worth it.

What Can You Keep in a Bioactive Vivarium?

Many types of reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates thrive in bioactive setups. Some animals that are great candidates include:

Dart frogs
Tree frogs
Day geckos
Crested geckos
Gargoyle geckos
Anoles
Skinks
Snakes
Lizards (bearded dragons, blue-tongued skinks)
Tarantulas
Millipedes
Some turtles

The species you select will dictate factors like the terrarium’s temperature, humidity, and size. Most amphibians require high humidity while desert reptiles need a drier environment. Make sure to research your animal’s specific care needs first. Also introduce inhabitants slowly, as a newly planted vivarium needs time to establish beneficial microorganisms and the clean-up crew.

What Do You Need to Make a Bioactive Terrarium?

Here is an overview of the key components in a basic bioactive terrarium setup:

Enclosure

Glass tank: A front-opening glass terrarium offers excellent visibility. Standard sizes range from 10-40 gallons. Make sure to size appropriately for inhabitant species.
Screen lid: Mesh tops provide ventilation while containing inhabitants. Cover part of the lid if more humidity is needed.
Background: Black aquarium backgrounds help mimic natural crevices. Foam or cork bark also work.
Lighting/heating:Linear fluorescent or LED lights for plant growth. Ceramic heat emitter, under tank heater, or heat mat for temperature control. Use a thermostat.

Substrate

The substrate forms the foundation that plants will grow in. It also allows burrowing reptiles room to dig. Some common options are:

Topsoil or coconut coir: Provides nutrients for plants. Look for organic and pesticide-free.
Play sand or excavator clay: Gives structure and allows burrowing.
Sphagnum moss or orchid bark: Helps with moisture and drainage.
Charcoal: Removes odors and has antibacterial properties. Use in small amounts.Mix 3-5 of these materials to get an ideal bioactive substrate. Coconut coir, topsoil, play sand, and orchid bark blends are very popular. Shoot for a minimum 3-4 inch depth for most enclosures.

Microfauna

Isopods: Common species include powder blue, dwarf white, and dwarf purple isopods. Assist with waste decomposition.
Springtails: Tropical white, pink, or temperate springtails. Help break down waste and aerate soil.

Landscaping Materials

Decorate the terrarium with elements that mimic the animal’s native environment. This provides enrichment and places to explore. Useful items include:

Wood: Branches, cork bark, cholla wood for climbing and perching. Can also sculptbackgrounds.
Rocks: Smooth river rocks, slate, granite for basking areas.
Leaves: Magnolia, live oak, and pothos leaves provide litter.
Moss: Pillow moss, reindeer moss for accent plants. Retain moisture well.
Seed pods: Scatter for natural foraging opportunities.

When decorating, create different levels, hide spots, and open areas. Reference photos of the species’ wild habitat for inspiration.

Clean-up Crew

These insects are vital for breaking down waste and cycling nutrients in the terrarium. Common options are:

Springtails: Eat mold, fungi, and decaying plant matter. Most common clean-up crew.
Isopods: Help decompose feces and food waste. Varieties include dwarf whites, powder blues, dairy cows.
Earthworms: Aerate the soil and enrich it with castings. Opt for smaller redworms.

Introduce a starter culture of at least 500-1000 individual springtails and isopods. They will multiply and thrive in a balanced bioactive environment.

Live Plants

Plants filter the air and water, provide cover, and give an aesthetic display. Choose hardy, tropical varieties that match the terrarium’s conditions. Some top options are:

Pothos
Dracaena
Croton
Bromeliads
Ferns
Nerve plants
Air plants
Ficus
Peperomia

Place plants based on lighting needs, size, water requirements, and visual appeal. Plant densely to start and thin out plants as the terrarium matures.

Water and Lighting

All living organisms in the terrarium need water and light to thrive. Consider:

Water sources like small ponds or drip systems
LED plant grow lights or UVB reptile bulbs
12-14 hours of light daily; follow seasonal light cycles
Light and heating fixtures for basking reptiles

Proper lighting ensures your plants and animals get the energy they need to grow and stay healthy long-term.

Step-by-Step Guide to Build a Bioactive Terrarium

Building a bioactive vivarium requires careful planning and setup to get the layers, soil structure, microclimate, and plants right. Follow these steps:

1. Assemble the enclosure

Start by cleaning the glass terrarium and installing the mesh lid and any backgrounds or backdrops. Wipe away debris or residue and ensure any foam decor is cured before adding animals.

2. Add drainage layer

Cover the bottom with 0.5-1 inch of expanded clay balls, gravel, or weed blocker fabric to allow water to drain away from the soil. This prevents overly wet conditions.

3. Include a nutrient base layer

Mix organic topsoil, coco coir, decomposed granite, and/or orchid bark to create a nutritious base layer 2-4 inches deep. This will feed plants and provide structure.

4. Install substrate barrier

Optional: Cut weed blocker fabric or fiberglass mesh to fit the sides and bottom of the tank. This will prevent the soil from mixing with the drainage layer.

5. Create the appropriate bioactive substrate

Mix organic topsoil, play sand, coco coir, and sphagnum moss in ratios ideal for the target species. This microbial mix is where microfauna will thrive. Add leaf litter.

6. Slope substrate and create features

Slope the substrate gently up the back and sides. Sculpt into natural shapes like ridges, valleys, and flat basking spots. Vary depths between 2-6 inches.

7. Plant foliage, mosses and trailing species

Place hardy plants adapted to the target climate in the background first. Add trailing vines, mosses, and aquatic plants after. Check spacing and growth habits.

8. Introduce cleanup crew animals

Add a starter culture of springtails, isopods, millipedes, worms, and/or snails. Use ratios of 1 isopod and 5-10 springtails per square inch of surface area. Scatter throughout vivaria.

9. Monitor and adjust as needed

Mist regularly at first and ensure lighting, heating, and humidity match plant and animal needs. Monitor plant health and microfauna levels, making adjustments as required.

With planning and patience, you can create a thriving planted habitat with minimal future upkeep required. Routine maintenance will mainly involve trimming plants, spot cleaning, and replenishing microfauna populations.

What’s Needed for Ongoing Terrarium Maintenance?

Once set up, bioactive vivariums require minimal care and maintenance to flourish:

Provide proper lighting: Use full spectrum lighting on a cycle matching the inhabitant’s needs. Many plants need 12-14 hours of light.
Mist regularly: Mist once or twice daily to maintain humidity, hydrating plants and microfauna. Reduce misting as condensation builds on the glass.
Monitor plants: Watch for signs of thriving or struggling plants. Prune back or move plants as needed. Replace dead plants promptly.
Check water features: Replenish water levels in pools or ponds. Clean out leaves or algae buildup clogging water flows.
Remove waste: Spot clean feces or urates using a spoon or tongs. Remove uneaten food daily to avoid decay and molds.
Replenish microfauna: If cleanup crews decline, top off populations by adding more springtails, isopods, or other species.
Trim plants: Prune back large plants crowding others or blocking light and airflow. Remove damaged leaves and dying material.

With good initial plant and animal selection along with proper lighting and heating, bioactive vivariums often thrive with minimal care needed long-term. The stabilized nature lets them run themselves like mini ecosystems.

Common Issues with Bioactive Setups

Despite the ideal self-sustaining design, problems can sometimes arise in bioactive vivariums:

Excess moisture and mold

Insufficient ventilation, misting, and drainage can lead to overly wet substrates vulnerable to mold growth. Improve airflow, reduce misting frequency, and use thinner substrate layers.

Declining plant health

Poor lighting, low humidity, or improper temperatures may stress plants. Assess conditions and adjust to match plant needs. Replace struggling plants with hardier choices.

Microfauna die-offs

Rapid declines in cleanup crew bugs may indicate toxic decor materials, chemical cleaners, overly wet conditions, or incompatible species. Troubleshoot and reintroduce suitable bugs.

Unpleasant odors

Foul odors often means excess waste buildup and lack of microfauna to process debris. Spot clean waste and add supplemental isopods, springtails, and plants to rebalance the system.

Inhabitant health issues

Skin, shell, or shedding issues may be caused by overly humid or too dry conditions. Reassess parameters like heat and humidity and adjust as required to meet inhabitant needs.

Catching problems early and making suitable adjustments to moisture, microfauna, plants, lighting, and heating can get struggling vivariums back on track. Seek advice from experienced bioactive keepers when diagnosis and correction proves difficult.

Ideal Plants for Bioactive Terrariums

Selecting the right plants is key to providing needed functions in a bioactive vivarium. Look for hardy, resilient species adapted to the enclosure’s temperature, humidity, and lighting when compiling your plant list. Helpful roles plants can serve:

Cleanup ammonia, nitrates

Pothos: Hardy vine that grows quickly to remove waste. Tolerates varying conditions.
Chlorophytum comosum: Spider plants effectively absorb nitrogen compounds and other toxins.
Dracaena: Durable species like D. sanderiana (lucky bamboo) uptake nitrogen waste reliably.
Peperomia: Tropical epiphytes suitable for warmer setups and terrariums. Slow growing but effective.

Provide shade and shelter

Ficus pumila: Climbing or creeping fig with small leaves offers cover as it spreads over decor.
Philodendron: Trailing or vining aroids like P. cordatum (heartleaf) give protection.
Pilea: Trailing pilea species like friendship plant trail attractively while providing security.
Ferns: Birch, button, and other medium sized ferns give refuge when planted densely.

Help maintain humidity

Bromeliads: Urn-shaped neotropical plants that collect water in their cups. Look for small, hardy species.
Tillandsia: Air plants like Spanish moss help raise humidity levels without soil. Mount on decor.
Peperomia prostrata: Trailing plants with thick leaves reduce moisture loss through transpiration.
Mosses: Cushion moss, java moss, and others hold humidity when grown on hardscape.

Offer edible options

Weeping fig: Ficus benjamina provides broad leaves reptiles can nibble and hide under.
Dragon tree: Dracaena marginata is a hardy plant tolerated by herbivorous species.
Hibiscus: Both hardy and tropical hibiscus can be enjoyed by iguanas. Use non-toxic varieties.
Basil: A fragrant herb enjoyed by green anoles, bearded dragons, and others.

Research species’ needs and match them to enclosure conditions when selecting vivarium plants. Favor hardy choices that serve key roles like shelter, humidity, and waste uptake.

Suitable Microfauna for Bioactive Setups

Microfauna are a critical component that catalyzes the bioactive cycle by breaking down waste products. These tiny creatures constantly turn and aerate the substrate while consuming debris. Here are some suitable options:

Isopods

Powder blue (Porcellio laevis): The most common isopod. Tolerates varying humidity. Slow growing.
Dwarf white (Trichorhina tomentosa): Smaller white isopods good for small enclosures. Prefer drier conditions.
Dwarf purple (P. pruinosus): Violet isopods that burrow extensively in damp substrates. Fast reproducers.
Giant canyon/orange (Venezillo arizonicus): Larger cleaner suited to dry habitats. Cannot climb smooth surfaces well.

Springtails

Tropical white (Folsomia candida): Fast-spreading white springtails that thrive in humidity. Workhorses for planted tanks.
Temperate (Sinella curviseta): Pink/white springtails adapted to regular room temperatures and standard vivs.
Tomocerus (Tomocerus sp.): Elongated white springtails that prefer drier terrariums. Burrow less but cover more ground.
Silver (Neelus minimus): Tiny silver-blue springtails. Help keep mold down in humid tanks. Require high moisture.

Other Microfauna

Seed shrimp (Ostracoda sp.): Cleaners that consume fungus, algae, and detritus. Use in paludariums.
Soil mites (Oribatida sp.): Armored mites often found in natural substrates. Assist decomposition. Can spike unnaturally.

Research microfauna suited to the enclosure’s temperature and humidity. Use springtails and isopods as primary cleaners, with other microfauna providing backup. Introduce cultures once the vivarium is planted and established.

Suitable Clean Up Crews for Vivariums

Larger clean up crew animals help break down and digest organic materials while tunneling through substrate. They are optional but beneficial additions:

Snails

Ramshorn snails (Planorbella sp.): Small ramshorn species clear algae and eat decaying plants. Tolerate most conditions.
Thorn nerite snails (Clithon corona): Attractive algae grazers that are prolific breeders requiring population management.
Horned nerite snails (Clithon diadema): Larger nerites with elaborate horns that help control algae.

Millipedes

Ivory millipedes (Chicobolus spinigerus): Gentle, small white millipedes that sift substrates while feeding on decaying leaves.
Narceus americanus: “Pink millipedes” that grow large but are docile burrowers, churning substrates. Tolerate drier conditions.
Archispirostreptus gigas: Giant African millipedes that are very effective composters but require advanced care.

Worms

Composting worms (Eisenia hortensis): Red wiggler worms frequently used for composting work well in bioactive substrates. Require moisture.
European nightcrawlers (Eisenia hortensis): Larger worms that tunnel deeply, processing lots of organic matter. Prefer cool temperatures.
Earthworms (Lumbricus terrestris): Native North American earthworms that survive in appropriate naturalistic vivariums.

Only include 1-2 cleanup crew species at moderate levels to prevent overloading the system. Monitor populations and remove excess individuals if needed.

Matching Bioactive Conditions to Species

Not all bioactive setups should follow a standard template. Factors like heating, humidity, plants, and substrates must be tailored to inhabitant species:

Arboreal & tropical

Dart frogs, chameleons, day geckos, green tree pythons
Tropical plants: bromeliads, orchids, tillandsia, creeping fig
Higher humidity: 60-80%
ABG mix substrates with leaf litter

Desert & arid

Leopard geckos, bearded dragons, uromastyx
Succulents, sansevieria, alo: These drought-tolerant plants match arid species’ natural environments.
Lower humidity: 30-50%
Sandy soil mix substrates

Semi-aquatic

Newts, salamanders, mud turtles
Paludarium with land and water areas
Mosses, marginal plants like anubias
High moisture on land portion

Burrowing & grassland

Sand boas, collared lizards, tortoises
Grasses, low broadleaf plants
Topsoil and play sand substrates
Varied humidity depending on species

Forest floor

Corn snakes, kingsnakes, skinks
Pothos, bromeliads, creeping fig
Coconut husk and sphagnum substrates
Moderate humidity around 50-70%

Generalist

Leopard geckos, anoles, crested geckos
Pothos, dracaena, ficus
Coconut fiber substrate
Variable humidity based on inhabitant needs

No matter the species housed, the basics remain the same: provide suitable microclimates, microfauna and clean up crews, and plants matched to the pet’s needs. Adjust variables like heating, lighting, and humidity based on inhabitant origins and care guidelines.

Bioactive Vivariums for Beginners

Newcomers to bioactive setups should start simple with these beginner-friendly options:

Leopard geckos: Tolerant of basic conditions and moderate humidity. Use sand/soil mix and hardy succulents.
Crested geckos: Thrive around room temperatures in planted tanks with pothos and ficus. Add mild cleaner species.
Anoles: Do well with bromeliads, pothos, and lower cleanup crews levels given their small waste output.
Pac-Man frogs: Require less open space and appreciate densely planted simple habitats with microfauna to clean up waste.
Mourning geckos: Hardy and thrive in groups in basic planted tanks with egg crate barriers and horizontal cork.
White’s tree frogs: Versatile and tolerate a range of planted setups. Provide some water and hides near heat source.
TOM paludariums: Aquatic portion is more forgiving of beginner mistakes. Maintain modest land area plants and cleaners.

The most important aspects for beginners are proper planning, species selection, lighting, heating, humidty, and learning to wait patiently for the ecosystem to stabilize. Seek mentorship from experienced bioactive keepers when starting out.

Final Tips for Success

Follow these last tips to give your bioactive terrarium the best chance of thriving:

Research your species’ natural habitat and mimic those conditions
Quarantine all new plants in a separate tank for 1-2 weeks before adding
Introduce inhabitants slowly once the terrarium cycles and plants establish
Be patient – allow at least 6 weeks for the environment to stabilize after setup
Join bioactive keeper groups online to learn from experienced hobbyists
Don’t let temperatures fluctuate widely between day and night
Gain experience with easier dry species before attempting high-humidity vivariums
Start with more hardy common plants before introducing rare varieties

Construct your background, hardscapes, and plant layout first before focusing on fine details. Don’t overload on intricate decor in a small space. With time, the plants will mature and fill out the space. Proper lighting is critical – research solar levels in the species’ native region and aim to recreate those conditions.

Final Thoughts

Constructing a thriving bioactive habitat requires careful planning, quality materials, and proper balance between plants, microfaunas, and cleanup crews. The initial setup takes more work than traditional enclosures, but the years of healthy growth and minimal maintenance make the effort well worth it. Your reptiles, amphibians, and invertebrates get to live in a small slice of nature, carrying out natural behaviors in a realistic planted environment. Take your time designing an ideal custom bioactive world for your pets to enjoy for years to come.